Day 44 ocean swim
I talked to a thirty-something year old surfer just now, looking down in the dumps by the stairs. He was dripping wet, watching his four buddies tearing up the outside. He told me “Maybe I’ve lost it..? I couldn’t make it out! The current swept me all the way to Ninth Street.” I told him about the two high school seniors I met yesterday, and how they were swept even further to Seventh Street before they gave up and walked back up the beach. Strapping young guys who surf
